Santillana (No) Del Mar

28 September 

Santillana Del Mar

Hotel Altamira 

Up until now all of the towns I’ve stayed in have been on the sea. 

But here the walk turns inland briefly to go through Santillana Del Mar, which is NOT on the sea in spite of its name.

It is a beautiful Medieval town with cobble-stoned streets, well-maintained ancient buildings, and a Romanesque church. 

I attended a mass where I understood very little so I made up my own sermon about God’s love, kindness, and forgiveness.

As I left Gran Hotel in Santander yesterday, skipping and tripping down the path, I did indeed trip and turn my hip. So I was grateful yet again for the bathtub tonight and a chance to soak, rest, and wander in this little town today.

Ferries, Treachery, and Comfort

26 September
Noja, Cantabria

Hosteria Dos Laureles

Out of Laredo and after a stretch of sidewalk walking along the coast, I crossed over to Santoña by ferry...

...with, among others, a threesome and a dog...

...then passed houses along the beach...

… to the beginning of a climb over this hill.

I realize it doesn’t look very daunting. But it was so treacherous and dangerous that the expert walker I spoke to next (see Hank below) told me he hadn’t taken pictures for fear of falling off the edge. 

But I really wanted a record of this part of the walk (and am grateful to be telling you about it). 

On the other side, I was so relieved to see the beach and know that I was on the way down. 

Still, caution was imperative until I got down to the nude beach (…with nothing very interesting to report).

On the way into town, I met Hank from the Netherlands. 

He had walked several Caminos and also the Via Francigena which I too had walked in 2017. 

After such a dramatic day of walking, I was relieved to settle into my little Hosteria, so comfortable and welcoming.

Walk, Autobus, Walk, BMW, Walk, Autobus

25 September
Laredo
Hostel Rosi

I had Camino blessings today.

I am taking the bus on occasion through this area to skip over parts of the Camino, usually the road walking. Not only is walking on highways very difficult on your body. It is extremely dangerous in mountainous areas where there are blind curves and no shoulder.

This is what I mean.

I was taking the bus to a place called Muskiz. I had asked the (impatient) young woman at Tourismo for the way to Pobeña where I wanted to start my walk, and she directed me this town. I assumed that Muskiz was the Basque name for Pobeña. 

Not so (granted, I should’ve researched the town name). I ended up in a very industrialized area a good 6 km away from Pobeña. 

So what to do? I thought about walking the extra 6 km.

But then it became very obvious that I should find a bar, order a cup of coffee, and start asking questions in my broken Spanish. 

These three Camino angels put together a plan for Donnie, on the left, to take me to Pobeña since he was going in that direction anyway. So I accepted the offer of a ride. Some of you might think me crazy, but I had no doubt in this case that I was safe.

What I didn’t know was that I would be going in style.

I thanked Donnie who wouldn’t accept payment and began my walk out of Pobeña. 

It was another fabulous day with views of the beach practically the entire way. 

I walked a while with an Australian cattle farmer named Carolyn. She took this photo.

The walk was breathtaking all day, so I’ll share the beauty without distracting you with words. 

Bilbao: Old Town to New City

24 September 

Bilbao

Casual Gurea 

Rest Day

Cities are easy and comfortable for me when traveling alone. 

The walk into Bilboa is dramatic even when the weather is not (as this photo makes it out to be).

I am lucky to be staying in the Old Town...

...where orienting from the hostel perfectly located next to the ancient cathedral...

...and finding the way to Plaza Major is a mini adventure.

I like to have coffee and dinner in the same place if I find the waiters to be friendly and tolerant of my broken Spanish...

...and Victor’s fits the bill. 

Strolling down the river to the Guggenheim, there was a crew team practicing (even though the boats were synthetic)...

...and late 19th century architecture...

...before coming upon the museum itself which for me is a more interesting piece of art work than the contents. 

...Yikes!

Zumaia to Deba to Bilbao

23 September

Between Zumaia and Deba

The walk along the coast today was spectacular. Even though this route was more remote and I saw very few people, I was happy that I had chosen it. 

I rarely lost sight of the coast, but when I did, the trail would come back to it pretty quickly. 


I took this one after a particularly tough climb. I wish I could show you how high above the sea I actually was when I took it. You’ll just have to believe me. 

Pilgrims are very respectful of the fact that we are walking on the property of owners and in this case alongside the owner’s livestock. I was particularly respectful of this family of cattle, especially after the papa warned me away with a deep and very loud sound. 

This guy was taking up all of the trail, so I had to wait for him to mosey along.

This sign essentially says, if you go through the gate, please close it back so that my cows won’t fall off the cliff into the sea. 

Sassoon and Neal had come from Israel to walk the Camino. They had started in Pamplona which is along another version of the Camino, decided it was just like walking in Israel, and had come north to walk the Del Norte which of course as you are seeing is anything but hot and arid. 

An appropriate end to a near perfect day of walking is guiltless gelato.